Houppelandes are worn with a belt. However, Jean Creton was not particularly interested in belts. In his manuscript there are only two, not very detailed, belt depictions. Those are depicted as golden or brass in color and either stamped with square patterns or composed of plaques:
Other contemporary manuscripts give us more belt details:
In addition, there are several good compilations of late 14:th and early 15:th century belts and belt details, especially for the latter half of the 15:th century:
- The book ”Dress Accessories, c. 1150- c. 1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London)” by Geoff Agan and Frances Pritchard, 2013
- Larsdotter’s compilation
- An Armour Archive forum thread
Belt styles in the time of Jean Creton
To summarize, two main styles of belts were used at the time of Jean Creton:
- Plaque belts or knight girdles
- Long-narrow belts with mounts
Plaque belts and knight girdles were usually wide but not longer than the diameter of the wearer’s waist. They are often depicted as fully gilded, but likely could have enamel paintings and other decorations.
Long-narrow belts were long enough to be tied around themselves and left dangling with a decorative strap ending. The buckle and hanging strap-end part could be positioned either at the wearer’s front or back. Belt widths between 2-4 cm seems to have been common, while lengths could be up to 180 cm. The leather was often dyed; black was most common, but red and green colors also occur. It could also be stamped or embossed. Alternatively, the leather could be covered by colored velvet. Decorative mounts were placed at intervals dependent on the wallet of the wearer. A dagger was often fastened to the belt, hanging at the wearer’s back.
Bells
Folly bells are not depicted in Jean Creton’s manuscript but were a fashionable accessory at the time, worn by both men and women. Other dangling decorations were also common.
Jean Creton’s belt
Jean Creton was not a knight which makes him less likely to have worn a knight’s girdle. His humble style without visible accessories suggest that he could have used a leather belt of the long-narrow style, without any bells. Based on the the color scheme of his outfit, a black leather belt with silver parts seems suitable. Given his trip to England, the use of belt parts copied from the London excavations seem fitting.
Ornamental motifs
Long-narrow belts usually had a buckle, a strap end and decorative mounts. The acorn (oak nut), thistle and bud were all popular motifs in the time of Jean Creton, especially in strap ends and other belt decorations. The French lily (Fleur du Lys) could also be a good choice for decorative mounts, due to its association with the French nobility.
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